Across the river from the ‘Believe’ sign and ‘Space Whale’ sculpture in downtown Reno, stands an interesting-looking historic building. Built in 1934, the building was designed by a local architect in Art Deco style, and originally served as a hybrid post office and federal office building.
This location served as Reno’s main post-office until 1975, then continued as a smaller office until 2012, when a local development group acquired the space. In 2015 ‘The Basement’ opened, featuring a local marketplace of both dining and retail establishments located in the basement of the building. One of these businesses now there is a locally and family owned restaurant called Papa What You Cooking.
It specializes in soul food, which is usually associated with authentic southern cuisine. Part-owner Kai Stanton explained their idea of soul food is different, and is more about unity and embracing family traditions, wherever you are.
“The basis and the foundation of soul food is the soul of Nevada, the soul of families. And so it's not fried foods, it's not based on just one particular culture, It's multiple cultures coming together to say, ‘hey, we're here, we're growing together,’” she explained.
Stanton shared how they offer all types of wonderful savory and sweet foods. These include baked chicken, red beans and rice, shrimp and grits, as well as oxtails, which Stanton described as the must-try dish if you could only have one.
“Our wonderful oxtails pair well with a bed of rice and the gravy that comes from the oxtail juice that’s produced by being seared and cooked for 12 hours… so many people love the oxtails,” she said.
All of their food comes from original family recipes, with ingredients sourced from local Nevadan farmers. Some seasonings they have shipped from family back in Louisiana or New Orleans.
Additionally, they offer a “Soulful Garden” menu, which contains salads and other options that cater to dietary restrictions. A unique element of the restaurant is it also contains a cafe-style coffee bar, with cookies, pies and other sweets.
“Our coffee is absolutely wonderful because we tag teamed with Wood-Fire Roasted Coffee here locally in town… their beans come from Guatemala and Ethiopia which creates our Truckee River Roast,” said Stanton.
Beyond providing unique offerings however, Stanton expressed pride in the restaurant being able to help grow the unity and legacy of Reno, while also preserving history.
“One thing I want to share most of all, and I think we can all agree, is that we want to share the unity and the love of family, the heart and the beautiful culture of Reno, to preserve the historical buildings that were here, to help support not just Reno to grow, but to grow Reno's legacy and to help not just revamp downtown but to give amazing memories to downtown Reno and to allow families to enjoy the beautiful scenery that so many people have helped develop downtown,” she said.
Stanton and her fiancé, William Lyons, who is the other owner, had the idea to start a restaurant, after Lyons had many requests for his homemade cookies, cakes, and pies.
“It started with something very small, people just appreciated the flavors of what we’ve already developed,” said Stanton.
With both recently retired, they stumbled upon the old post-office during a downtown stroll, and fell in love with the aesthetics and how it felt like “a little home,” Stanton said.
They also loved the idea of being in what Stanton calls “the heart” of Reno. Being in the downtown that’s right on the river allows them to reach both locals and tourists alike, while also being a vibrant part of the city’s development.
“To be in the middle or the heart of something keeps blood flowing, keeps energy going, and to be a part of that amazing vibe and to bring not just the culture of family, but [also] embracing and helping with the revamping and development of downtown Reno… And to be a part of the heartbeat of Nevada right downtown, we're hoping to be able to encourage other families to do the same.” Stanton said when speaking about the location of the restaurant and what it means.
Stanton also commented on the interesting intersection between the legacy of the old post-office building, and the legacy they wish to leave behind for their family.
For Stanton, their restaurant is keeping the culture of their childhood alive for their children and grandchildren, maintaining their legacy. Simultaneously, the legacy of the old post-office is preserved by it being still used. This inspires them.
“I love it when people come in and say, this is the building that I came with my mother or my grandmother to pick up their mail. And then to have something to try [and eat] that we've, you know, provided for them, just further enhances the legacy enrichment of coming to Reno and being in the heart of Reno,” she said.
The name ‘Papa What You Cooking’ is inspired by a common phrase uttered by Lyons’ family members, as his cooking would often be the gravitational force that pulled the family together.
“There's something about when Papa cooks food, it brings everyone together and everyone's so excited. And everybody has a Papa, right? And so him being the Papa in the culture at home as well, everyone would ask, Papa, what are you cooking? So we thought that that would be a great name for a restaurant to be Papa What You Cooking,” she concluded.
Our Town Reno reporting by Dan Mariani